Multiple-needle sewing machine



G. S. GAICHELI..

MULTIPLE NEEDLE SEWING MAC'HINE.

i APPLICATION FILED AUGJO, 1917.

A ORNEY kum G l QR* INVENTOR Patented Mar. 21

G. S. G AICHELL. MULTIPLE NEEDLE SEWING MACHINE..

APPLICATION FILED AUG. I0. 191?.

Patented Mar. 21, 1922.

1 SHEETS-SHEET 2.

INVENTOR ATTORNEY G. S. GAICHELL.

.MULTIPLE NEEDLE SEWING MACHINE.

APPLICATION FILED ^UG.'I0. 1917.

Patented Mar. 21, 1922.

7 SHEETS-SHEET 3.

INV'ENTOR ATToRNY G. S. GATGHELL. MULTIPLE NEEDLE SEWING MACHINE.

APPLlcATIoN FILED AuGJo. |911.

' Patented Mar. 21, 1922.

EETSqsHEET 4.

INVENTOR G. S. GATCHELL.

MULTIPLE NEEDLE SEWLNG MACHINE.

APPLlcATxoN FILED Aue.1o,1917.

1,410,057. Patented Mar. 21,1922.

Z SHEETS-SHEET 5.

INVENTOR G. S. GAICHELL.

MULTIPLENEEDLE SEWING MACHINE.

APPLICATION FILED AUG. l0. 1917. 1,410,057.

mun.,

1T. non

Mm 8 s A TIOHNEY G. S. GAICHELL.

MULTIPLE NEEDLE SEWING MACHINE.

APPLICATION man Ammo. 19u.

1,410,057. Patented Mar. 21,1922.

7 SHEETS-SHEET T.

@If m L B, l, @f2-meg.-

UNITED STATES PATE-NT *o1-unen.

GEORGE S. GATCHELL, OE ROSELLE PARK, vNEXV JERSEY, .ASSIGNCR T0 `'.lllSINGER MANUFACTURING COMPANY, A CORPGB-ATON OF NEW JERSEY.

MULTIPLE-NEEDLE SEVJNG MACHINE.

nemesi'.

specifica tion of Letters Patent.

Patented Mar. 21, 1922.

Application filed August i0, 1917. Serial No. 185,446.

To a?? fio/7mm it 'may concern c Beit known that I, Gnonon S. GATCHELL,a citizen oi the United States, residing at Roselle Park, in the countyof Union and State ot New Jersey, have invented certain new and usefulImprovements in Multiple- Needle Sewing Machines, ot' which thetollowing is a specification, reference being had therein to theaccompanying drawings.

This invention relates to improvements in multiple needle sewingmachines ot the type disclosed in the application ot G. E. Molyneux and(l. S. Gatschell, Series No. 40,564, tiled July 19, 1915, and has tor anobject the improvement of the threadcontrolling mechanism ot the machinedisclosed therein to overcome the noise and speed-limitation incident tothe use ot cam-actuated and spring controlled thread engaging levers,aud to prevent skipping of stitches 0r thread-breakage due to abnormaldisplacement or bunchinoj ot' the needle-loops on the looper, thererendering the machine quiet, smooth-running, and ethcient underhighspeed operating conditions.

A further object ot the invention is to provide the machine withimproved differential feeding mechanism wherein the stroke ot thefulling feed-member may be readily adjusted while the machine is inoperation to suit the character ot the work being stitched; andmechanism operating to secure. a uniform stitch-length regardless of thelength oli .stroke ot the ulling feednzomber. i

A 'further object or the invention is to provide a machine which willtrim the edges ot the material. and present them in strictly ahuttedrelation to the stitch-forming mechanism while avoiding an over-crowdingof said ahutted edges which, heretofore, has resulted in a seam somewhatbulky or ridged along the center line. further object of the inventionis to provide a machine with trimming mechauism and covering threadlaying mechanism constructed and arranged to relieve the presser-tootand bar of unnatural strains and to secure a maximum of space in rear otthe stitching point, thereby accommodating a maximum accumulation ofwork about the arm.

Still further, the invention has for an object to overcome in a largemeasure the objectionable eiiects caused by the inertia and patent toliunsing No. 506,524, October 10,

i893; an additional needle beingadoled in the present instance, to forman additional row of stitches; The needle-thread control- ,g mechanismincludes a series ot threadcams adapted to act on the needle-threadsdirectly, instead of through cam-controlled thread-arms. therebysecuring a positive action upon theneedle-threads and avoiding the noiseand slugffishness of operation incident to the use oi? saidthread-arms.` In the present instance the thread-cams are speciallyshaped to closely and differentially control the needle-threads, as'willbehereinafter explained, to meet the exacting tlnead-controlrequirements of a multipleneedlc single-looper machine of the presentcharacter.

It teature ot the present machine is the vcore-arm which issector-shaped in crosssection and wit-hin which the looper-shaft andditerential Jfeed are incorporated.v In multi ple-needle machines.having the usual shortradius looper there is a great tendcncv for theneedle-loops to crowd together on the looper rather than remain properlyspar-cd apart to permit the passage of the needles to one side ot theirrespective loo s. ly virtue of the present construction t e longestpossible radius of oscillation of the loopcr is provided, consistentwith a given minimum circumterence of the work-arm. ln addition to thelong-radius looper the machine may he itted with loop-detainers one ofwhich holds back on the looper-blade the first loop entered by thelooper, so that said loop can not possibly slip forwardly and into thepath ot its corresponding neelle during the loop-shedding stroke of thelooper. 'The remaining loop-detainers hold their respective loopsforwardly on the looper-blade and prevent said loops from b-V draggedback into the paths of adja needles by the retracting-looper.

lVhile these loop-detainers are not generally essential to the practicaloperation of the present stitch-forming mechanism, their use underspecial conditions u ay sometimes he deemed desirable.

vThe 'feeding mechanism is of the differential type represented in theapplication ot (l. E. Molyneux Serial No. 32,269, filed July 5, 1915,although differing therefrom in certain important particulars. In thepresent instance the main and auxiliary auxiliary feed-dog; Additionaladjustments of the` feed-dogs, relatively to their feedhars. areprovided. for varying the Valcove defined positions of the feed-dogsrelatively to the Vstitching point. Y

The machine is, inthe present instance, equipped with a presser-toothaving a pivoted sole-portion cooperating with the :teed-` dogs andincluding spaced toes between which the npturned marginal portions otmaterial are adapted to Vbe presented and `fed toward the stitchingpoint.` The trim ming mechanism` of the present machine includescooperative shearing blades adapted to operate'directly alcovev thespace between the toes of the presser-foot. The lower or ledger-blade ismounted independently oit' the presser-foot and is adapted to rise andfallwith the latter. The cutter-blade is also mounted for rising andfalling movements and is springpressed against theV ledgerblade; beingcarried by an oscillating lever fulcrumed on the bracket-armindependently of the pressertar.

To avoid the roduction ot a bulky or ridged seam due to an overcrowdingolE the marginal portions of the trimmed material as itis pressed downVhy the presser-foot after leaving the .trimming mechanism, thethroat-plate of the present machine is provided with an invertedV-shaped ridged member whose crest extends in a direction substantiallyparallel to the line otteed and against the oppositely` inclined sidesot which the materlal'is pressed by correspondingly `inclinedundersurfaces termed at the inner edges of the presser-toot toes. Thus, theWidth of fabric remaining within the range of' the needles is materiallyreduced and, as a result, an absolutely Vflat seam is produced. Asuitable trimming guide is provided to deflect the trimmings and ismounted on the hracketarin to swing outwardly to an inoperative positionfacilitating threading ot the needles and coverthread fingers.lhe'trimming guide is cone nected with the presser-har independently otthe lpresser-toot, to rise and tall with the latter.

In the accompanying drawings, Fig. 1 is a right side elevation 'of themachine, partly iii-section. F ig. 2 is a similar View from the lettside ol" `the machine. iFig. is a top plan view of the machine with theinclined driving shaft for the taire-up cams omitted. Fig. et is ahorizontal section through the standardahove the plane of the work-armand showing the work-arm in plan. Fig. 5 is a iront elevationot themachine with the looper enclosing endcap in, section. Fig. 5 is a frontVelevation ot the supporting trame and clamping devices for the stripperplates used in connection with the upper thread-controllingV cams. Fig.6 is a rear end elevation ot the machine partly iu section to expose theV1i'ieclr..iiisin housed within the standard. Fig. G@ is a cross-sectionthrough the tensioirsnpporting trame illustrated in Fig. (S. Fig/i" isau enlarged plan fview of the 'lree end'V lioition of the worlearm; Fig.8 is a crossseeti m through the take-up supporting 1 Vame. `Fig. 9 is aperspective view of 1a detail oit the looper-actuating mechanism. Figs.10 and 11 are cross-sections through the work-arm on-tlie `lines 1O-10`and 11-11., respectively. Fig. 4. Fig. 12 is a vertical transversesection` through the throat-plate on the line 12-12 ot Fig. 13. Fig. "18is a bottom plan view of the throat-plate showing the loopdetainerscarried thereby. Fig. 141 is a trans verse vertical section 'through thethroat plate and pressen'loot with the work in position therebetween andshowing the relation ot the trimmer-blades to the ridged worksupportingmember carried hy the throatrplate. Fig. 'l5 is a plan view of themechanism carried hy the bracketarm adjacent the stitching` point. Fig.15 a perspective view of the same with the work in position. Figa 16 isa vertical sectiolr taken in a vplane passii'ig tl'irough the axis ofthe lower section olf the presser-liar shown in Fig. 16. Figs. 17 and 18are perspective views oi the mechanism at the under side of thethroat-plate showingl the cooperation el* thelooper and needle-loepdetainers. .`i i9 a top plan view illustrating the cooperative `relationof. the'needles. loopcr. needlesloops, and needledoop detainers. l? 20is a vertical longitudinal section on the `line 20-20, Fig. 19, with thethroat-plate and material added. Fig. 21. is a similar view on the line21-21, Fig. 11.9.y Figs22 and'23 are side elevations ot the teermechanism at the ending and lieginnni points, respectively,` of a'feeding 1troln.\

Fig. 2-1- is an enlarged view illustrating the respective shapes of thetake-up and threadcontrolling cams mounted on the hraclretarm and Fig.is a perspective view ol? the seam produced by the machine.

rl`he improvements are shown applied to a machine having a base 1 fromwhich rises the standard 2 carrying the overhanging bracket-arm 3terminating in the hollow head 1-. Secured to the standard 2 is thehanged rearward extremity7 orn the tubular work-supporting arm which isformed with two angularly arranged flat sides G, ,T (Figs. and 11) and acurved upper side 8, whereby said work-arm is substantially sectorshapedin cross-section. Secured to the front or free end of the work-armcasting is the throat-plate 9 whose opposite lateral edges are groovedat 10 to slidably receive and support the end cap 11 which issectorshaped at its rearward end to conform to the cross-sectional shapeot the work-arm. The under surface ot' the end cap tapers upwardly andthe sides thereof taper ilo-rwardly toward the free end ci thethroatplate7 as shown in Figs. 1 and F.ito facilitate the advance oi'tubular work about the work-arm and toward the stitch-forming mechanism.Journaled -in and crosswisc ot the stanuard 2, above the horizontalplane of the work-arm and crosswise o' the verticalplane ot' thewort-arm, is the main shai't 12 carrying a pulley wheel 13 and handwheel14 both cast integral with a common hub 15.

The main-shaft is formed with a ballcrank 1G which. is embraced hy thelower strapped end of a pitrnan 17 the upper strapped end of whichembraces a ball-ended crank-pin 18 carried by the crank-arm 18 at therear end 'E the needle-actuating rock-shaft 19 which is journaled withinthe bracket-arm 3 and, at its forward end` carries a crank-arm 2Oconnected to the reciprocating needle-btu 21 by means o1' the linkSecured to the lower end ot the needle-bar 21 is the needle-clamp-blocl;23 which, in the present instance, is socketed to re feivevtour needlesal, a?, a3 and a* arranged in a vertical plane transverseljv of thework-arm 5.

Mounted within the end cap 11, in cooperative relation with the needles,is the thread-carrying looper 2&1; the upper edge ot the blade of whichis curved concentrically vith the curved upper side of the workarin, Fig. 5, while the lower edge 2l of said blade is but slightly curved ormay even be substantia ly straight throughout a portion of its length.rl`he slottedl shank of the looper is secured to the looper-support 25bj: a screw permitting adjustment ot the looper-blade toward and fromthe thing wlan-e. The looper-support is clamped t:

i the iront end ,ot the oscillating and endwise movable looper-shaftflwhich is journaled within and lengthwise o'f the work-arm 5 as closelyas practicable to the apex of the angle formed by the flat sides 6 and 7thereof, ldigs-f10 and 11, said angle being large enough to accommodatethe necessary loop-seizing and -shedding strokes oi1 the looper. It willbe understood that this arrangement aii'ords the longest possible radiusof oscillation ol? the looper-blade for a, given circumference ot' thework-arm. ln machines of the present character the circumference of thework-arm is limited by the size of the smallest tubular articles to bestitched and, in multiple-needle singlelooper machines, the longer theradius of oscillation of the looper-blade the greater the degree or'certainty with which the needle-loops will be seized and maintainedevenly spaced apart on the looper, as is essential to the formation ot aseam or' the present character, since the needles in their descent mustpass their respective previouslyY formed loops wit-hout catching orsplitting the threads thereof.

lt will be seen by referring to Figs. 5 and 12 that the needle-eyes arearranged on an incline; 'being placed at progressively lower elevationsbeginning with the needle nl to compensate for the upward movement ofthe needles as the looper-bealcadvances across the spacebetween saidneedles; the purpose being to insure the passage ot the looper-beak atthe correct distance above each needle-eye'to insure seizure oftherespective needle-loop. lt will be further seen by referring to Fig.5 that the needle points are arranged substantially in a common planeparallel tothe plane of the throatplate; the purpose being to insurethat the previously formed needle-loops on the looper will be passedsimultaneously by their respective needles at the time the lower edge 2lof 'the looper-blade occupies a substantially horizontal or otherwise1favorable angular position relatively to the throat-plate.

The looper-sharft 2T carries at its rearward enda crank-arm 2S having aballcranlr-pin 29 which is embraced by the lower strapped end of a link30 the upper strapped end ot which embraces a ball-eccentric 31 on themain-shaft 12 which imparts loopseizing and shedding movements to the.

looper. The hub ot' the crank-arm 28 is formed with a rearward extensioncarrying a ball-ended pin 28disposed concentrically with the axis ot thelooper-shatt and embraced by the socketed end of a link 32 whoseopposite end is connected to the depending arm of a rock-leverfulcruined to oscillate upon and independently of the cross-shaft 3-1journaled in the standard 2. The upwardly/extending arm 35 of saidroch-lever is slotted at 36 to receive an adjustable piu 3? which,through the pitman 238, connects said lever with the eccentric 39farried by the` main-shaft; said eccentric serving to impart sidcwise orneedle-avoiding movements to the looper.

Phe Afeeding meclmnism is as follows: secured to the niailrshaft is theleed-advancing eccentric 410 which is connected by the pitman alito therocker-mun flrthe split hub 4? oi' which is clamped to the crosssha'tt3l to which shaft Vis also clamped the split hubs of the main'feed-advancing rockerearm 44: and the auxiliary feed-advancingrocker-arm 45. The rockerearnr 44:V is formed with a curved slot 46 inwhich is adjustably secured` a pin 47 connected to one end ot a link 4Sthe opposite endv of which is pvotally connected to a lever 49 dependingVfrom a lined fnlcrum-pin 50 which extends across and within thestandard 2 in parallelism with the main-shaft The lower .end of thelever i9 is pivotally conneiL-ted to the rearwardend oi the main'feedebar 5l which extends within and longitudinally of the Work-armand, at its forward end, carries a screw-pin 52, Fig. Il, which passesthrough the slotted shank 51:3- of the main 'leed-dog 5st and serves tosecure the latter to said bar while permitting adjustment of the teeddoglengthwise of said bar.` lben the main feed-dog is `at the forward endof its stroke, Fig. 23, the slot 46 assumes a position-eoneentrlcwiththe point of pivotal connectionbetween the link 48 and the lever 49 sothat the main teeddog Will always assume the same forward positionregardless ofthe position of adjust-v ment of the )in 47 in the slot46'. The main feed-dog 54. ispreferably so adjusted: on themainfeedbarthat the front tooth of said feed-dog will rise intoengagement with the fabric in a position somewhat in advance ot' theneedles, as shown in Fig. 23.

The auxiliar' feed-rocker l5 is formed with a curved s ot 55 in whichistted a pin 56 carried by the rear end of a link 57 the front end ofwhich ispivotally connectedf to a lever depending from the Jr'ulcrum-pin50. The lower end of the lever 58 is pivotally. connected to one end ota link-section 59, the opposite end of which carries a .fixed pin 6()and a screw 61, both extending through `the slot 62 in the rear end olthe link-section 63,` the front end of which is pivotally connected at64 to a bracket 65 screwed to the side of the auxiliary feedbar 66 whichis deeply recessed or grooved at its under side, Fig. 1l, to fit aboutand slide uponthe forward end-portion of the main eed-bar'l. Thefeed-bar 66 carries Vthe auxiliaryfeed-dogt. llVhen the auxiliaryfeeddog 67 is at the rear end of its stroke,Fig. 22, the curved slot 55is substantially concentric with the pivotal connection between the link57 and lever 58 and, as a result, the auxiliary feed-dog will alwaysassume the same position relatively to the needles at the end of itsfeeding stroke, regardless of the position of adjustment oit the pin 56.ll're-er ably thelink-sections V59 and 63 areso adjusted that the reartooth of the auxiliary `leed-dog will end its feeding stroke at theVwhile the machine is Vin operation by means of the trcadle-controlledlever-arm 68 which is mounted on the rocleshaft 69 iulcrumed in thestandard 2 and carrying a lever-arm 68 which is connected by the link 70to the link 57. s Adjustable stop-screws 7l and 72l are yprovided tolimit the range oi movement oit the leverarm 63 and Va spring 73connected to the leverarm G8 and tothe frame serves to return the partsto normal position when pressure upon the treadle is released. `The mainand auxiliary leed-bars are sup ported within the workarm on a'Fulcrumblock Telwhich is fitted within the slot 7 in the main teed-barand is carriedV by the tulcrum-pin 76, supported, in turn, at thelforward end of the feed-lifting lever 77 which is pivoted within theworlearm on the trnnnionscrews 7S,- 78. The said lifting lever 77 isrocked by means of the eccentric V7S carried by the main-shaft andembraced bythe upper strapped end of a pitman 79-tl1e lower end of whichis pivotally connected to a rearward extension oit said ileed-lii`tinglever.

The reed-dogs cooperate with a presser foot comprising, inthe presentinstance, a sole-piece 80, Fig. l, )ivotedvat Sl to the shank secured tothe lower end oft the lel sections offset from one another and con-Vnected `to move 'as one bar by means of the lateral arm Sel. "The lowersection of the presser-bar is jonrnaled inthe bushing S5 and Wearing lug86, Fig. l, and the upper section is journaled in alined bearings'formed on the bearingliig,8`7, Fig. 5, and in the top oit the head a.Thejpresser-bar carries a bracket S8 extending laterally through a slot89 in the heads and acted Vupon by a leaf spring 90 the pressure ofwhich may be adjusted by means olV the screw `91. The presser-foot maybeliiifted by means of the usual treadle-controlled lever 88 the forwardextremity of which extends under 'the bracket 8S. The sole-piece of thepresserfoot is `formed with forwardly extending spaced Vtoes 92,A Figs.l5 and 16, deiining a slot within which the upturned portions ofmaterial to be stitched pass toward the stitching point.

mechanism comprising, in the-present in iis rthe cutter-blade rests uponthe ledger-A blade and'is clamped to the lower end of the verticallyslidable rod ournaled in spaced lues 99 toi-med at the 'forward end otthe cutter-lever arm 100 which is 'fulcrumed on the headed pin 101 linedto and depending vertically trom the bracket-arm 3 at a point closely inrear ot the head hl. The other arm 102 ofthe cutter-lever is Vlorlied atits eX- tremity to embrace a block 103 carried by the crank-pin 1011secured to the crank-disk 105 on the vertical shalt 106 which is rockedthrough a bevel-gear connection 107 with the needle-actiuiting`rock-shaft 19. rThe cutterblade slide-rod 98 is prevented from turning`in its bearing lugs by means oi the collar S. ig- 15, secured theretoand slotted at 109 to embrace vertical guide-walls 110 Vibi-med atopposite sides ot the vertical extension 100 at the t'ront end ot theleverarm 100. A springl 111 snrrounding` the slideaod 9S and interposedbetween the collar 108 and upper bearingr lug 99 serves to press thecutter-blade against the ledgerblade and maintain the latter in itsgroove in the presser-foot. v o

il collar 112. similar to the collar 108 is secured to the ledger-bladecarrying rod 95 and cooperates with guide-walls on the bracket 9T toprevent turning oit the rod 'll his collar may, if` desired, be adjusteddownwardly sutliciently to maintain the ledgerLblade at any desiredeleyation above the bottom of its groove in the presser-foot, as will bereadily understood. Thus, while the trimming;` blades are mounted tomove 'up and down with the presser-toot they may also be adjusted to actat a fixed elevation independently ot the presser-'toot and,turthermore, the presser-foot does not have to resist the cutting thrustof the cutting blade`r which in prior constructions tends to (wiststrainthe presser-'toot laterally or impart other unnatural strains to thepresser-toot.

The trimmings are deflected to one side of the work-arm and preventedfrom interfei` ingr with the action of the parts adj acentthe stitchingpeint by means ot the trimming guide 116 comprising trough shaped memberset on its side and having7 a receiving end cut to fit closely over thetrimmer-blades, as shown in Fig. 16. The trimming` guide 116 is carriedat the lower end of the rod 117 journaled in a bearing lug 118 formed onthe guide-bracket 97. The rod 1117 sustains at its upper end a laterallyprojecting finger-piece 119 which normally extends through a slot 120 inthe side-wall of the bearinfcg` lug 118 and locks the trimminfbr guidein operative position. By lifting the finger-piece out of the slot 120the trimming guide may be elevated and maythen be turned laterally toinoperative position; the f linger-piece 119 then resting upon the upperend of the bearing lug- 118, as shown-in Figs. 5 and 15. The coiledspring 121, Fig. 2, surrounding the reduced upper portion ofthe rod 1177within the bearing lug 118, presses said rod downwardly and yieldinglymaintains the lingerpiece 119 in engagement with the lower sleevedextremity of the adjustable link 122 depending from the bracket S8Vcarried by the presser-bar. By means of this connection the trimming`guide will be caused to move up-and-down in unison with thepresser-'toot` but will not press downwardly against the latter orinterfere with the tilting of the sole-piece 80. Further than this, anupward movement of the presser-foot will not tend to twist or strain thetrimming guide or cramp the supporting` rod 117 in its bearings,

as would be the case iffthe treeend of the trimming guide rested uponthe presser-foot.

1n prior machines of the present character the work hasbeen sharply bentupwardly about the lower inner corners of thepresserfoot toes and, whentrimmed, an excess ot vertically extending material remains below thepla-ne of action of the trimmer-blades to be pressed downwardly andincorporated in the seam. This results inan overcrowding ot the materialwithin the seam making it bulky or ridged alongrthe center line. Toavoid this overcrowding of the material and facilitate the production ofa perfectly tlat seam, the throat-plate ot the present machine isfitted' with a narrow and elongated ridged member 123 whosecrest 124 isdisposed eentrally of and parallel with the line ot seam formation andwithin the space between the presser-toes 92, Figs. 5 and 1K1; the undersurfaces of 7said toes being inclined at their inner edgesto correspondor coact with derstood that this construction lmaterially reduces theamount of material to be subsequently flattened and stitched.y In thepresent instance, as the eut edge-portions of material leave the trimmerthey travel down the inclined rearward end 125, Figui', of the ridg'edmember and are directed into abutting relation in the plane of' the workby the iis cross-bar 126, Fig. 15, of the presser-foot without beingunduly overcrowded.

The Cmf'ering threads to be incorporated in the upper' side of the seamare presented by a pair of eyed `threzul-lingers havingcurvedhorizontally disposed blades 127 and Vertically arranged shank's l128;the latter being secured in socketed bosses 129 at the tree ends oi thethread-linger carrying levers 130 the opposite apertured ends of whichare ulcrumed upon the lower reduced end of the bushing or sleevesurrounding,r the presser-bar, as shown in Fig. 16", The thread-fingerblades are preferably curved to the same radius concentrically with thepresser-bar and operate in planesrone slightly above the other.Simultaneous oscillatory movements in opposite directions are impartedto the levers by means of the links ,131 which `connect the latter withone arm of the bellcrank lmfer132 fulerumed on the headed pin 133carried by the head 4. The 4otllier arm of the bellcrank lever carries aball-ended pin 132 which connected by a link 133 to a ball-ended -pin134 carried by the lower end of `the de.- pending arm 134 clamped to thefront end of the rock-shaft 135 journaled at the side `od? thebracket-arm in the` bearing lug 136. The rear end of the shaft 135`carries a `crank-arm 137 which projectsinto the standard 2 through anopening 138 in the side of the latter and is connected by aballand-socket joint to the upper end of the pit- `man 139 actuated by aball-eccentric 140 on the hollow counter-shaft 141 journaled on thefixed pin 141 in parallelism with the main-shaft and driven by thelatter through two-to-one speed-reducing gears 1112. f"1`hethread-fingers yare thus actuated back-andforth across the line of seamin front of the needles at one-half the .frequency of reciproeation ofthe needles, so that each threadnger presents itsthread to the needlesalternately at lopposite sides Iof the line of seam. It will now beappreciated that when the trimming guide 116'isshi1fte'd to inoperative`position the thread-fingers and needles will be exposed and may readilybe threaded.

The take-up for the needle-threads consists of a thread-guiding bracket1413 secured tothe top yof the .needle-bar 21 and formed `with ahorizontal bar having` individual needle-thread eyes 144. Cooperatingwith the take-up bracket 1113 to diiferentially control theneedlethreadstl, t?, t3 and t* are the respective thread-engagng` camsfc?, c2, c3 sind e", each of which comprises, in 'the present instance,two similar spaced disks formed integral with a common hub. Said camsare `mounted on acam-shaft 145 which `isjour- -naled `in athread-controller trame 14:6 secured to the ytop -ot the bracketarm `and4is `driven by a one-to-one borrel-.gear connection 1&7 with the upperend of an inclined shait 148 enclosed within the shaft casing 148. Thelower end of the shaft lll-8 is connected to the counter-shaft v141 by aoneto-two speed multi plying` bevel-gear connection 1419, whereby theshai'tll is driven. at the same speed as the main-shaft 12. .Rising fromthe frame 1116 are `two standards 1507 F igs. 1 and 3, to each of whichare pivoted the .sh-anke of two similar fork-shaped threadguides 15.1,the tines of each :fork being dis- .poscd at opposite sides of a.corresponding one of said thread-cams and apertured at 152 to guide thethread across the active peripheral portion of said.l cam. Threaded intothe shank of each thread-guidinifork soY 1151 is an adjusting screw 153which deter- Y mines the position or height o1: the thread eyes 152.spring` 1511; presses against the inclined rear end of the shank of eachfork and yielding'ly maintains the screw 153 in contact with thetop-surface of the standard 150. @ne of the tines of each fork 151 isextended forwardly to form a fingenpiece 1:55 `which-may be readilylifted by the operator to shift the fork to threading position, shown indotted lines, Fig. 1. Disposed in a plane between the spaced members ofeach thread-cam is a corresponding stripper-plate 156 the upperextremity ot which is slotted at 157 to guide the thread and to causevsaid cam to deflect the thread radially, thereby overcoming the tendencyof the cam to carry the thread around with it. The shanks 156 .ofthestripper-plates 156 are fitted in corresponding slots cut in thesupporting block or frame 156 and deiining' spaced and opposed abutmcnts156'" against which the Shanks 156 are clamped by vmeans of the archedsprings 156a through the centers of `which pass the screws 156; saidscrews serving to slightly flatten thespringjs 156n and thereby clampthe Shanks of the stripperplates 156 .tightly against the abutments156", asw1llbe--readily understood. n

CooperatinSg)` with the thread-cams are a series o1' thread-nippers 0*,one :tor each thread. As these nippers are all alike a desleeve 158 andsustained by a cross-pin 163 extending through the pin 160. lournaled inthe frame 146 at the lower ends o't the pins 160 is `rock-shaft 161which is cut away Linder each ol" said pins to afford a lifting shoulder161i. rfhe rock-shalt 16a as the thread-nippers fr act to lock theneecarries a crank-arm 165 which is pivotally connected to a pitnian 166actuated by the eccentric 16T on the shaft lel The threadnippers fr actto lock and release the needlethreads during each cycle ol' operations,as will be more fully explained.

In addition to the needle-thread Canis, the sha't't 145 carries acovering tlnead-controller cani and a covering thread pullol'l cani c6.These canis and their` cooperative thread-guides and stripper-plates aresubstantially of the saine construction as the needle-thread earns andneed no lfurther description. pluralityot superposed threadnippersprings 16S are disposed between the lhrezul-cains ff and c and areactuated in the usual inanner by the cani 169 on the shaft 1-15 to nipthe covering threads during the action ot the pull-ofi cani es.

series of guard-members or springs 170 are provided to prevent windingof the needle-thread about the take-up shaft'let in case oit'thread-breakage. Each of the guardspring is wide enough to extend acrossthe space between adjacent canis and the ends of said springs niay befitted into suitable re i-esses provided ticretor in the frame 1&6, asshown in Fig. S.

Mounted on top ot the bracket-arm at the 'far of the machine is atension-supporting traine 170* carrying a series of tensions 1.71 forthe needle, looper and covering threads. Fach ol these tensions includesa tension-repin 172 beingolf the well known const ic'tion disclosed, forexample in the patent to lle Tfoe. No. tiled-L05. ,ln the presentinstance, however, the pins 172 are lifted to release the tensions byshoulders 117.2 a ll'orded by notches in the tension-releasingroi'fk-shaits 175 journaled in the traine One oit the rock-shafts 175carries an 1 'ng a lateral pin 17? einbraced y the forked extremity 17Sof a lever179 A o the other rock-shalt 175V and actu- ;ij.' means ot' alink connection 180 with toot litting-leier 8S. lVhen the is lil/ted allthe tensions 171 will accordingv be released.

` d-engaging earns carried by the 'e shaped substantially as illus- `lin rig. 21. Starting at the p 'tion sneu-ir the needle-bar is at itshighest point and the tliread-nippers i are opened; the threads beingrestrained or steadied, howover.y by the tensions 171. As the needlesdescend` the outwardly inclined portions of the cams to the lett of thethread-eyes 152 posicively take up or absorb the slack given up b v thedescending take-up guide-bar 14:3, thereby preventing the formation oit'slack thread l elow the needle-eyes and maintaining the previousneedle-loops snugly about the looper-blade.

The eye` olI the needle la enters the work start to rise.

elle-threads and as the peak 'L44' of cani ,ci

passes the linel of stationary thread-guides 152,y rllhe inwardinclination of cam c4 following the peak ut gives up the thread requiredby the eye oi' needle 'nt as it doubles its thread below the nia-terial.Similarly, at successively later stages, the peaks us, u and nl et thecams c3, c2 and c1, respectively, passY the guides 152 as the eyes oitneedles n3, n2 and nl, respectively, descend below the work, and theinward inclines vfollowing said peaks give up the thread required by therespective needle-eyes as they double their thread below the work.

At the point o* the previously formed loopot the needle a* is shed fromthe looper and the outward incline following the point o4 and leading`to the peak fw4 acts positively to quickly take up or tighten said loop.Similarly at the point-s o3, 'v2 and o1, the respective loops el needlesn?, a2 and nl are successively shed by the looper and are successivelyand positively tightened by the outward inclines following .the pointso3, o2 and el and leading to the respective peaks w3, wf and w1. Theinward inclines following said last-mentioned peaks give up the threadrequired by the needles to complete their down-strolses7while'niaintaining the previous needle-threads somewhat tautf andclosely under control. i v

lYhen the needles reach the end ol their down-stroke the' cains haverota-ted 1800 and the slight inward inclination of the cani c following`this point slightly slackens the thread z" so that the loop thrownout'by the needle a will not be robbed ot any oit its thread or reducedin size by the contracting tendency of the threadwhen relieved otstrain. The progressively steeper outward incliues ot' the earns c2, ciand ci', following the point7 act toV reduce 'the sizes of therespective loops presented by the needles n?, In: and it, by drawingthread back through the eyes ol' said needles, to reduce said loops tothe proper size prior to their seizure by the looper-beak. It will beunderstood-that since the eye voli-the needle 'fait descends below thework a greater distance than. the needle n3 Sec., niore thread will haveto be drawn hack through the eye of' the needle n* than throughthe eyeof the needle 7113, prior' to seizureo the needle-loops on the looper.in order that said loops may be reduced to substantially the saine size.The nippers i' are opened as the needles Vllh en the pea-k reaches theline of thread-guide 152, the looper-beak will just I CIJ lll() haveentered the loop ot' the needle fn and i the inward inclination of the`cani c', Afolilowing the peak c'c, will give up just enough thread. tocompensate tor the rtake-up action of the needle-bar andniaintainitheiloop of `needle a snugly about the looper-blade.

Similarly, as the peaks ad, m3 and ai pass' the `gaiides at successivelylater stages, the looper will have succes ively seized the loops ot `therespectixe needles n?, n and nfl', and the in 7ard inelines tollmvingsaid peaks will give up just enough Vthread to co1npensate for thetake-up action o' the rising needle-bau' and maintain the loops oi' saidneedles snugly about the looper-blade.

After the cams have rotatedabout 3250 the last mentioned giving upaction ot' the cams ceases and the continued upward movement of theneedle-bar guides 141 acts to draw or measure trom the supply. theamount oi thread required for the next stitch, the nippers r being stillopen;

By these means the needle-threads are controlled in a positive andeicient manner and a high-speed quiet running and quick acting system ofdifferential thread-controllers is provided, thus insuring a fullrealization of the .important advantages inherent in the idea ofcontrolling the needle-threads differentially as disclosed. in saidMolyneux and Gatchell application Serial No. 40,564.

By the use of a long radius looper in con- `junction with the presentthread-controlling back into the mechanism, the needle-loops on thelooper `Will ordinarily be maintainedl evenly spaced apart so that eachneedle in its descent will pass down beside its respective previouslyformed loop. However, to further insure against abnormal displacement otthe needle-loops on the looper, the machine may, if desired, be equip edwith the loop-detainers comprising, in t e present instance, three`hooked lingers 18,1 for cooperation with the loopsoi. the needles n2,and u* and au additional oppositely hooked'linger 182 for cooperationwith the loop ot the needle n. The detainers 181vareV formed at the endof a plate 183, the slotted shank of which is `entered by a screw 184securing the shank of `said plate within a groove 185 at the under sideof the throat-plate, thereby permittin adjnstmentof said lingerslengthwise o'. thethroat-plate and facilitating accurate positioning ofsaid ingers relatively to the needles and looper. y

The tip ends of the detainers 183 are curved or inclined opposite to thedirection of retraction of the looper and are positioned between theneedlepaths and above the looper-path to engage the upper limbs ot therespective previously `formed needle-loops extending betweenthe laststitch and the.

curved up er edge ot the looper-blade, as shown in igs. 20 `and 21 andprevent the `retmcting looper from draggingsaid loops aths of theirrespective next adjacent need es. In practice, it is found that thereisa tendency for the previously formed loop of the needle n to slip tofard `the point of the looper and into the path of said needle. To"avoid this dilliculty, the looper-blade may be notched to provide ashoulder 186 adapted to engage the loop ot said needle n during theiii-st 'part ot the rctracting ,stroke o't' the looper, as shown inAFig. 1T, and drag said loop backwardly a. slight distance past. saidlinger 192, the looper at the saine time also moving sidewise under saidiinger, whereupon the loop slips over the shoulder 180 and is detainedat one side of the path ot the needle a by said linger, as shown inFigs. 19 and 2t. The tip end o1' the finger 182 is lne'terably curved ordirected slightly toward the direction ot retraction of the looper-bladeand is made separately :from the detainers 181 being, in tho presentinstance, secured to the plate 183 by a screw 187 which permitsadjustment ot the finger 182 about said screw as a pivot.

The machine is provided with means controlled by the thickness olf the'work ier regulating the amount of thread measured from the supply bythe thread-eyes 144C. Rising iroin the top oi? the head l is a. post 190carrying a pivot-screw 191 upon which is ulcrnmedit-he lever 192, therearwardly .extending arm of which is provided' with a slot 193 enteredby a lateral pin 19e/t adjustably secured in the horizontal slot 195`formed in the bracket 196 having an apertured hub surrounding and tiredto the presser-bar. The forwardly extending arm oit the lever 192 isapertured at its :tree end to receive and support a horizontalthreadengaging rod 19T having a down-turned ei;- tremity 198. The rod197 is disposed closely in rear ot the plane ot reciprocation oit thetake-up eyes 1114 and arrests the upward movement ot theneedle-threadlengths extending vforwardly from the thread-guiding torks191 and causes the thread-eyes 1414i to pull an amount oli thread tromthe supply depending upon the elevation ot the rod 197. It the workincreases in thickness the rod 197 will be lowered and consequently willarrestthe upward movement ot the needlethreads earlier and increase thepullolt action of the threadfguides 1434i-, accordingly, as will beclear from an inspection of ,Fig 1.

f, ournaled within. and crosswise of the rearward end oi' the worm-arm 5is a sha-tt 199 which is connected to the gear 14:2 on the hollowcounter-shaft 1451 by a gear 200 ot one-half the size ot the gearm14r2in order that the shaft 199 will bo driven at the saine speed as themain-shaft 12.

VMounted upon the shaft 199 and within the Y the looper advances andretreats while the cam 202 is shaped to measure off a supply oflooper-thread required for the formation of a stitch. Cooperating withthe cams 201 and 202 are thread-enga ging forks 203 whose tines areapertured at 204: and whose shanks 205 are pivoted at 206 to brackets207 mounted on lugs 208 within the work-arm. The thread guidingapertures 20st maybe raised or lowered by means of adjusting screws 209and the rearward inclined ends of the Shanks 205 are acted upon bysprings 210 to yieldingly maintain the screws 209 in contact with thebrackets 207 wliilepermitting the forks to be swung upwardly tothreading position. Stripper wires 211, corresponding in function to thestripper-plates 156 previously described, are situated between the disksof each cani. The nipper-cam 203 acts upon a `pair of superposednippersprings 212 to nip the looper-tliread; the

`timing in the present instance being such that the nippers are closedupon the thread as the looper begins Vits retracting stroke, andareopened as soon as the advancing looper has entered all of theneedle-loops. The pull-ofi" cam 202 begins to pull looper- .thread fromthe supply as soon as the nippers 212 are closed and gives lup thethread to the advancing looper as soon as the nippers are opened. Theincorporation of a rotary looper-thread controller within a liollowwork-supporting arm is believed to be broadly new with me and it is animportant improvement over prior devices of a similar nature for the-reason that it is located nearer the stitching point and consequentlywill allow the relatively short length of thread extending forwardly tothe looper to vbe rapidly and readily paid out and taken up exactly asrequired by the loopei, as it alternately advances and retreats.

vHaving thus set forth the nature of the invention, what I claim hereinis Y 1.' A sewing machine comprising, in combination, .a frame includinga fixedv worksiipport and an overhanging bracket-arm, a

.spring-pressed presser-bar journaled in said bracket-arm, apresser-footcarried by said.

presser-bar and having spaced toes between which upturned marginalportions of material are adapted to pass, and trimming mechanism mountedon said frame independently of said presser-foot and bar and includingcooperating shearing Yelements adapted to trim off said up-tiirnedportions of material.

2. A sewing machine comprising, in combination, a frame including anoverhanging bracket-arm, a presser-bar, a presser-foot carried by' saidpresser-bar and having spaced toes between which Mupturned marginalportions of material are Vadapted to pass, and trimming mechanismmounted on said frame independently of said pressercating a foot and barand including n downwardly spring pressed cooperative shearing elementsresting upon said presser-foot and adapted to trim @if said upturnedmarginal portions of material.

3. A sewing machine comprising, in conibination, a frame including anoverhanging bracket-arm, a presser-bar, a presser-foot Vcarried by saidpresser-barand including presser-foot lcarried thereby and including apivoted sole-portion formed with spaced .toes between which upturnedmarginal portionsofV` material are adapted to pass, anddownwardlyspring-pressed trimming means adapted to rest u )on thepivoted sole-portion of said presseroot and trim off said upturnedmarginal portions of material.

5. A sewing machine comprising, in com- 'bination a frame including anoverhang'ing bracket-arm, stitch-forming mechanism including areciprocating needle, a presserfoot including spaced toes between whichupturned marginal portions or material are adapted to pass and betrimmed, a presserbar supporting said presser-foot, ai'ledgerblademounted on said frame independently" of said presser-foot and bar andreciproand downwardly spring-pressed cutter-b de resting upon said ,letger-blade.

6. A sewing machine comprising, in combination, a frame including anoverhanging bracket-arm, stitch-forming mechanism including areciprocating needle, a springvpressed presser-bar, a presser-footcarried thereby and including spaced,toesbetweeim which Vupturnedmarginal portions of lmaterial are adapted to pass and be trimmed, aledger-blade resting upon saidv presser-foot, a `bar movably mountedupon said frame independently of said presser-bar and carrying saidledger-blade, and a reciprocating and downwardly spring-pressedcutter-blade resting upon said ledger-blade and yieldingly pressing thelatter against said presseri 7. A sewing machine comprising, in com!bination, a frame including an overhanging bracket-arm, stitch-formingmechanism including a reciprocating needle, a springpressed presser-bar,a presser-foot carried thereby and comprising a shank Vand a pivotedsole-portion formed with spaced toes between which upturned marginalportions of material are adapted to pass and be trimmed, a ledger-bladeresting upon,

izo

`said `presser-foot, `a bar movablyinounted upon said frameindependently of said presser-bar andl carrying said ledger-blade, andareciprocatin and downwardly spiingpressed cutter-bla e resting upon saidledger-blade and yieldingly lpressing the latter against saidpresser-foot. y Y

8. A sewing machine comprising, in combination, fabric-uniting means, awork-suport having angularly related flat surfaces `intersecting in anedge to form a ridge extending lengthwise of the line of seam-for-`mation, presser-means adapted to press the work against the fiat sidesurfaces of said ridge and including spaced portions defining a slotbetween which upturned marginal portions of material are "adapted topass, trimming mechanism disposed in advance of said fabric-unitingmeans and adapted to trimoff said upturned marginal portions ofmaterial, and means for pressing the trimmed edge portions of materialinto abutting relation before they are1 united. 'f

` 9."A sewing machine comprising, in combination, a frame, coveringstitch-forming mechanism incorporated in said frame, feeding `mechanismincluding Va feed-dog,

`presser means opposed thereto and including spaced `work-engaging toesbetween which upturned marginal portions of niaterial areadapted to passtoward the stitching point, awork-support having angularly arranged flatsurfaces intersecting in an edge and forming an inverted V-shaped ridgehaving a crest which extends length- 'wise and substantially centrallyof theline of seam and is disposed within the space between saidtoes,"thework-enga 'ng surfaces of said toes being incline tocorrespondwith the complemental work-engaging surface ortions of saidridge, trimming mechanism including a cutting device operating` close tosaid presser-foot and a ove said` ridge, and means for directing the cutedges into `abutting relation.

10. In a sewing machine, in combination, stitch-forming mechanism,feeding mechafnism` comprising laterally spaced feed-dog sections,`presser means including. spaced toes opposed tosaid feed-dog sections, athroat-plate having a substantially `flat surface adjacent the stitchingpoint and formed in advance thereof with a ridge presenting oppositelyinclined sides defining planes meeting in an apex extending in thedirection of feed substantially centrally of the lineof seam anddisposed above the `throat-plate and within t-lie space between saidtoes, trimming mechanism including knives adapted to operate on thefabric in advance ofthe stitch-forming mechanism at a point wherethefabric is supported by said ridge, and means for directing the cut edgesinto abutting relation.

11. In a sewing machine, in combination, multiple needle seam-coveringmechanism, a throat-plate having a flat work-supporting surfacesurrounding the stitchingpoint and a ridged work-supporting surfacehaving angularly related flat sides intersecting in an edge in advanceof the stitching point and above the level of said fiat work-supportingsurface,4 feeding mechanism compris-4 in feed-dog sections disposed atopposite sic es of said ridged work-supporting surface, a presser-foothaving a flat heel-portion and spaced toe-portions cooperating with saidfeed-dog sections and having their inner lower corners beveled toconform tothe fiat sides of said iidged work-supporting surface,and'trimming mechanism operating "above said ridged work-supportingsurface and adaptedto trim off the upturned marginal portions ofmaterial passing between said toes, the heel-portion of the presserfootoperating to direct the cut edges into abutting relation.

ing a plurality of reciprocating needles and complemental loop-takingmeans, a presserbar, a presser-footfhaving spaced toes between whichupturned'marginal portions of material are adapted to pass, trimmingmechanism including an oscillatory blade operating at the frequency ofreciprocation of the needles and adapted to trim off said upturnedmarginal portions ofmaterial, and an oscillating covering thread fingerhaving a thread delivering eye moving back and forth across the line ofseam in front of the needle at half the frequency of reciprocation ofthe latter and journaled concentrically with but independently of thepresser-bar.

4. In a sewing machine, in combination, stitch-forming mechanismincluding a plurality of reciprocating needles and complementalloop-taking means, a presser-bar, a presser-foot having spaced toesbetween which upturned marginal portions of material are adapted .topass, trimming mechanism including an oscillatory blade operating at thefrequency of reciprocation of the needles and adapted to trim ofi' saidup-v turned marginal portions of material, and a pair of oscillatingcovering thread-ngers journaled concentrically with the presserbar andhaving their lower end-p ortions curved to the same radius concentricwith the presser-bar and disposed in horizontal planes, said fingersbeing formed with thread delivering eyes adaptedto pass backand-forthacross the line of seam in front of the needles at half the frequency ofreciprocation of the latter.

l5. In a sewing machine, in combination, a presser-foot having spacedtoe-portions, presser-foot lifting means, trimming mechanism adapted totrim off upturned marginal portions of material passing into the spacebetween said toe-portions, a trimming guide, and connections betweensaid presser-foot lifter and said trimming guide, independent of saidpresser-foot, for lifting said guide.

16. In a sewing machine, in combination, a presser-bar, a slottedpresser-foot secured thereto, trimming mechanism adapted to trim ofi1upturned marginal portions of material passing into the slot of saidpresserfoot and a vertically movable trimming guide sustained by saidpresser-bar independently of said presser-foot.

1T. In a sewing machine, in combination, an over-hanging bracket-arm, ahead sustained at the free end of said arm, a slot-ted presser-footmounted in said head for rising and falling movements, a dependingbracket secured to one side of said head, a ledgerblade mounted in saidbracket for rising and falling movements, a trimming guide mounted insaid bracket for rising and falling and lateral turning movements, and atrimmer-blade cooperating with said ledgerblade above the slot in saidpresser-foot to trim oif upturned marginal portions of the material inadvance of the trimming guide.

18.- A sewing machine having, in combination, stitch-forming mechanism,a springpressed presser-foot, and horizontally acting trimming meansmounted for vertical adjustment to different operative levelsindependent of saidV presser-foot and operating upon the work in advanceof the stitchforming mechanism.V

19. A sewing machine comprising, in combination7 covering-stitch-formingmechanism, feeding mechanism, a work-support having a ridge disposedlengthwise and substantially centrally of the line of seam formation,spaced presser toes disposed over said ridge and dening a slot betweenwhich upturned marginal portions of` material are adapted to pass,trimming mechanism in advance of said stitch-forming mechanism andincluding a cutting device disposed directly over said ridge andoperating to trim off the upturned marginal portions of material whensupported by said ridge, and means for directing the trimmed edges intoabutting relation.

In testimony whereof, I have signed my name to this specification.

GEORGE S. GATCHELL.

